Madrid: A Wonderful City, Whatever the Weather

El Retiro Park

The weather during our recent visit to Madrid was, quite frankly, appalling. However, even several days of rain could not disguise what a wonderful city it is.

As many of you will know, I have travelled extensively since starting my career in travel since the 1980s. Yet one major European city had somehow escaped me: Madrid, the capital of Spain.

We stayed for three nights and were genuinely impressed. Compared with many other European capitals, Madrid feels relatively compact and easy to explore. It is a city made for walking, although a comfortable pair of shoes is essential because you will certainly cover plenty of ground.

Staying near the Gran Vía

Running through the heart of Madrid is the Gran Vía. Think of Oxford Street in London, but surrounded by grand architecture and with a distinctly Spanish atmosphere.

You will find almost every type of shop imaginable, from familiar high-street and fast-fashion brands to luxury names such as Dior and Hermès. Between them are restaurants, cafés, theatres, hotels and an almost constant flow of people.

We visited at the beginning of May, and the city was extremely busy. It was not simply full of overseas tourists; there were Spanish visitors and local people everywhere, which gave Madrid a real energy and buzz. Outside London, that atmosphere can sometimes be difficult to find in the UK these days.

We stayed at the Petit Palace Triball, a small and highly rated three-star hotel on a side street just off the Gran Vía. The location was excellent. We could step outside and immediately be in the heart of the city, without needing taxis or even using Madrid’s extensive Metro system.

Being so central naturally means there can be some noise, so lighter sleepers may prefer a quieter neighbourhood. For us, however, the convenience of being able to walk almost everywhere outweighed that.

The hotel was friendly, well run and comfortable, with the added bonus of breakfast being served until 11am.

Gran Via

Chueca: lively, colourful and full of character

Just behind our hotel was Chueca, Madrid’s vibrant LGBTQ+ district.

Why mention this? Because it is an excellent area to explore, regardless of who you are. It has an eclectic mixture of independent shops, boutiques, cafés, restaurants and bars, together with small squares that begin filling up in the early evening as local people meet after work.

Even in the pouring rain, the area was lively and welcoming.

Madrid’s central neighbourhoods are highly walkable, but each has its own atmosphere. The main Centro district includes Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace, while the Paseo del Prado is home to world-famous art museums and the beautiful El Retiro Park.

Other popular areas include Malasaña, known for its nightlife and independent character; La Latina, famous for tapas; and Salamanca, where you will find elegant streets and upmarket shopping.

El Retiro Park

One of the loveliest and most peaceful areas of Madrid was around El Retiro Park.

This enormous green space includes gardens, monuments and a large boating lake. The surrounding neighbourhood is also home to some beautiful hotels, including the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, as well as several very inviting restaurants and cafés.

We visited on a rainy Sunday morning, yet the park was full of local people. Some were running, others were walking, and families were spending time together. It was lovely to see and gave us a real sense of how Madrileños enjoy their city.

There are also plenty of places to stop for a coffee while exploring.

The Royal Palace and Madrid’s architecture

After walking much of the Gran Vía, we eventually reached the Royal Palace of Madrid.

The palace is no longer used as the everyday residence of the Spanish royal family, although it remains an important ceremonial building and is still used for state occasions. It is vast and considerably larger than Buckingham Palace.

I must admit that I found parts of the exterior a little disappointing, as it appeared to need some care and attention. That stood out because so many of Madrid’s other buildings are beautifully preserved and almost immaculate.

For anyone who loves architecture, Madrid is a fascinating destination. It is a city where looking upwards can be just as rewarding as looking ahead. The streets are lined with elaborate façades, towers, statues, domes and decorative details.

One particularly striking building near our hotel looked as though it might once have been an opulent Art Deco bank. It is now home to a flagship mobile phone store, but after doing some research, I discovered it was originally built in the 1920s for Spain’s national telecommunications company.

At the time, it was regarded as one of Europe’s first skyscrapers. Spain’s first telephone call to the United States was made from the building, and at one point almost every telephone line in the country passed through it. Remarkably, it remains in use today.

Madrid is full of stories like this.

Parts of the city have an almost Parisian feel, with wide boulevards, grand buildings, elegant squares and plenty of green space. It feels spacious, well planned and visually impressive.

Eating and drinking in Madrid

Another pleasant surprise was the cost of eating and drinking.

Considering we were in a major European capital, Madrid felt noticeably less expensive than many places in the UK. A good meal for two, including drinks, could cost around €50, while coffees were often approximately €2.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat, although it is worth remembering that Spanish people generally dine much later than we do in the UK.

A restaurant that looks quiet at 7pm may be completely full by 9.30pm. Several places we hoped to visit were fully booked, so reserving a table is advisable, particularly at weekends or when you have somewhere specific in mind.

Madrid’s food scene combines traditional Spanish cooking with modern and creative influences.

Local dishes worth trying include:

Cocido Madrileño – a hearty stew traditionally made with meat, chickpeas and vegetables.

Patatas bravas – fried potatoes served with a spicy tomato sauce.

Chocotejas – chocolates filled with dulce de leche, dried fruit or nuts.

Madrid is also home to Sobrino de Botín, founded in 1725 and widely recognised as the world’s oldest continuously operating restaurant. It remains famous for dishes cooked in its original wood-fired oven, particularly roast suckling pig.

Things to see and do in Madrid

There is far more to Madrid than we could fit into three nights. Some of its best-known attractions include:

Plaza Mayor – one of Madrid’s most impressive historic squares and once the heart of the city’s civic life.

Puerta del Sol – a busy central square surrounded by shops, restaurants and famous landmarks.

Museo del Prado – one of the world’s great art galleries, with an extraordinary collection of European masterpieces.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía – home to an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art.

El Rastro – Madrid’s famous Sunday flea market, with antiques, second-hand goods, food stalls and plenty of atmosphere.

El Retiro Park – elegant gardens, monuments and a boating lake in the heart of the city.

Santiago Bernabéu Stadium – home of Real Madrid and one of the world’s most famous football grounds.

The Royal Palace – the largest royal palace in Western Europe and still used for state ceremonies.

Almudena Cathedral – Madrid’s principal cathedral, begun in 1883 and finally completed in 1993.

The Temple of Debod – an authentic Egyptian temple dating from the second century BC.

Getting around Madrid

Madrid has one of Europe’s largest Metro systems, making it easy to travel across the city.

Single and multiple-journey tickets can be purchased from machines that provide instructions in several languages, including English. There is also an extensive public bus network, and combination tickets are available for both the Metro and buses.

Despite this, we did not use public transport during our stay. We found the central areas very walkable, although we certainly covered a considerable number of steps.

Flying Club Class with Iberia

We treated ourselves to Club Class with Iberia, which provided a very enjoyable beginning and end to the trip.

At Heathrow Terminal 5, we used the British Airways lounges, which were excellent. On the return journey, we visited Iberia’s flagship lounge at Madrid Terminal 4S, which was equally impressive.

Flying economy would, of course, reduce the overall cost, but the Club Class experience made this short break feel especially relaxing.

Would I return?

Absolutely.

Madrid is lively, elegant and welcoming, with fascinating neighbourhoods, excellent restaurants, beautiful architecture and plenty to see.

Three nights gave us a very good introduction, but there is still much more to discover. I would happily return, perhaps combining Madrid with another Spanish city such as Seville or Valencia for a twin-centre holiday.

For similar dates in May 2027, a three-night stay at the Petit Palace Triball, including Club Class flights and pre-booked private transfers, would cost from approximately

£900 per person.

Economy flights would make the trip more affordable, while upgrading to a higher-category hotel would naturally increase the price.

Even with dreadful weather, Madrid managed to impress us. That probably says everything.